Crochet Beginner-Level Socks Pattern

Crochet tools and materials:

<> Crochet Hook 3.5 mm;

<> Any light medium or heavy DK yarn, or if unavailable, use medium.

Crochet socks size:

Size: US: 7.5 or 8 = 24.5 cm (9.5 in) 

Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches

Common abbreviations of crochet stitches (US):

ch – chain

SC – single crochet

DC – double crochet

sl st – slip stitch

WS – wrong side

RS – right side

FPDC – front post double crochet

FPSC – front post single crochet

BPDC – back post double crochet

SC2tog – single crochet two stitches together

Beginner-level socks crochet pattern:

Round 1: Ch 11. SC in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 8 ch. 2 SC in the last ch. Continue crocheting on the opposite side of the foundation chain, working 1 SC in each chain across. Join to the 1st SC. (20 SC)

Round 2:  No ch 1 needed. SC in the next 8 sts (place stitch marker in the first SC), 2 SC in the next 2 sts, SC in the next 8 sts, 2 SC in the next 2 sts. No join needed; start the next round in the stitch with the stitch marker. Continue placing a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round (24 SC)

Round 3: SC in the next 8 sts (place stitch marker in the first SC), 2 SC in the next sts, SC in next 2 sts, 2 SC in the next sts, SC in the next 8 sts, 2 SC in the next st, SC in next 2 sts, 2 SC in the next sts. No join needed; start the next round in the stitch with the stitch marker. (28 SC)

Round 4: SC in the next 8 sts (place stitch marker in the first SC), 2 SC in the next sts, SC in next 4 sts, 2 SC in the next sts, SC in the next 8 sts, 2 SC in the next st, SC in next 4 sts, 2 SC in the next sts. No join needed; start the next round in the stitch with the stitch marker. (32 SC)

Round 5: SC in the next 8 sts (place stitch marker in the first SC), 2 SC in the next sts, SC in next 6 sts, 2 SC in the next sts, SC in the next 8 sts, 2 SC in the next st, SC in next 6 sts, 2 SC in the next sts. No join needed; start the next round in the stitch with the stitch marker. (36 SC)

Round 6: SC in the next 8 sts (place stitch marker in the first SC), 2 SC in the next sts, SC in next 8 sts, 2 SC in the next sts, SC in the next 8 sts, 2 SC in the next st, SC in next 8 sts, 2 SC in the next sts. No join needed; start the next round in the stitch with the stitch marker. (40 SC)

Rounds 7-34: SC in each st around (place stitch marker in the first SC). The sock should measure 14-16 cm at this point, depending on the size you are crocheting.

To position the beginning of the round along the side when the sock is laid flat, crochet SC in the next 2 stitches (or as many as needed).

Crochet heel

Turn your work to begin the first row of the heel on the wrong side. Turn your work counterclockwise so that the working yarn is in front.

Row 1 (WS): No ch 1 needed. Skip the 1st stitch, SC in next 19 sts. Turn counterclockwise.

Row 2 (RS):  No ch 1 needed. Skip the 1st stitch, SC in next 18 sts. Turn counterclockwise.

Row 3 (WS): No ch 1 needed. Skip the 1st stitch, SC in next 17 sts. Turn.

Row 4 (RS):  No ch 1 needed. Skip the 1st stitch, SC in next 16 sts. Turn.

Row 5 (WS): No ch 1 needed. Skip the 1st stitch, SC in the next 15 sts. Turn.

Row 6 (RS):  No ch 1 needed. Skip the 1st stitch, SC in next 14 sts. Turn.

Row 7 (WS): No ch 1 needed. Skip the 1st stitch, SC in the next 13 sts. Turn.

Row 8 (RS):  No ch 1 needed. Skip the 1st stitch, SC in next 12 sts. Turn.

Row 9 (WS): No ch 1 needed. Skip the 1st stitch, SC in the next 11 sts. Turn.

Row 10 (RS):  No ch 1 needed. Skip the 1st stitch, SC in next 10 sts. Turn.

Row 11 (WS): No ch 1 needed. Skip the 1st stitch, SC in the next 9 sts. Turn.

Row 12 (RS):  No ch 1 needed. Skip the 1st stitch, SC in next 8 sts. Turn.

Row 13 (WS): No ch 1 needed. Skip the 1st stitch, SC in the next 7 sts. Turn.

Row 14 (RS):  No ch 1 needed. Skip the 1st stitch, SC in next 6 sts. Turn.

Row 15 (WS): No ch 1 needed. Skip the 1st stitch, SC in the next 5 sts. Turn.

Row 16 (RS):  No ch 1 needed. Skip the 1st stitch, SC in next 4 sts. Turn.

Crochet leg of the sock.

Round 1: Now work along one side of the triangular-shaped heel, picking up and crocheting 16 SC (place stitch marker in the first SC). Then, crochet 20 SC across the upper part of the sock, 16 SC along the second side of the triangular-shaped heel, and 4 SC across the back section left after shaping the heel. No join needed; start the next round in the stitch with the stitch marker. (56)

Rounds 2-6: SC in each st around. (56)

Round 7: SC in next 15 sts, SC2tog, SC in next 18 sts,  SC2tog, SC in next 19 sts. (54) 

You can place decreases wherever you prefer, but be sure to keep them symmetrical.

Round 8: SC in each st around. (54)

Round 9: SC in next 14 sts, SC2tog, SC in next 18 sts,  SC2tog, SC in next 18 sts. (52) 

Round 10: SC in each st around. (52)

Round 11: SC in next 15 sts, SC2tog, SC in next 16 sts,  SC2tog, SC in next 17 sts. (50) 

Round 12: SC in next 14 sts, SC2tog, SC in next 16 sts,  SC2tog, SC in next 16 sts. (48) 

Round 13: SC in each st around. (48)

Round 14: SC2tog, SC in next 44 sts,  SC2tog. (46) 

Rounds 15-16: SC in each st around. (46) Join with sl st in the last round.

Crochet ribbing of the sock:

Round 1: FPSC+ ch1(count it as FPDC), DC in next st, [FPDC in next st, DC in next st] – repeat around. At the end of the round, join with a slip stitch under the Ch 1 of the first FPDC.

Rounds 2-7: FPSC+ ch1 around the same post of the previous round, BPDC around the next DC, [FPDC, BPDC] – repeat around. Join.

Cut the yarn and weave in all ends. Repeat everything for the second sock.