Crochet Flat Slippers Pattern
Pattern Sections
Crochet materials and tools:
Crochet hook 5 mm.
Tent Sale, Soft Worsted (4) –100% acrylic. Quantity: 95 grams.
Stitch marker
Crochet slippers size:
Size: US 7-8 (24 cm)
Common abbreviations of crochet stitches (US):
ch – chain
SC– single crochet
sl st – slip stitch
sl st blo – slip stitch back loop only
dec – decrease: Insert the hook through the back loop of the next st and draw up a loop, then insert the hook through the back loop of the next st and immediately into the back loop of the following st, draw up a loop. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on your hook
inc – increase: Work 3 SC into the same stitch, inserting the hook under both loops
sp – space
st(s) – stitch(es)
Flat slippers crochet pattern:
Crochet the sock:
Start with a slip knot and do not tighten it. Count the slip knot as the first ch. Leaving the slip knot loose helps create a solid beginning without a visible hole. Row 1: Ch 74, then ch 1 extra for turning (75 ch in total). Sl st into the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Work the last sl st into the slip knot that was not tightened, then pull the tail to tighten it. (74)
Row 2: Ch 1, sl st blo in each st across. Work the last stitch of each even-numbered row under both loops. (74)
Row 3: Ch 1, sl st blo in each st across. (74)
Row 4: Ch 1, sl st blo in each st across. (74)
Row 5: Count 34 sts from the beginning and place a stitch marker in the 34th st. Ch 1, sl st blo in the next 32 sts, dec, sl st blo in the next 37 sts. Leave the last 2 sts unworked. Hold the marker in the stitch with the dec.
Row 6: Ch 1, sl st blo in next 36 sts, dec, sl st blo in the next 31 sts.
Row 7: Ch 1, sl st blo in next 30 sts, dec, sl st blo in the next 33 sts. Leave the last 4 sts unworked.
Row 8: Ch 1, sl st blo in next 32 sts, dec, sl st blo in the next 29 sts.
Row 9: Ch 1, sl st blo in next 28 sts, dec, sl st blo in the next 29 sts. Leave the last 6 sts unworked.
Row 10: Ch 1, sl st blo in next 28 sts, dec, sl st blo in the next 27 sts.
Row 11: Ch 1, sl st blo in next 26 sts, dec, sl st blo in the next 27 sts. To create a smooth transition between rows and avoid holes, *insert the hook under the bar between the last two rows, then into the back loop of the next stitch, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops on the hook, sl st blo — repeat from * 3 times. (This brings the total to 33 sl st blo after dec.) (60)
Row 12: Ch 1, sl st blo in each st across. (60)
Row 13: Ch 1, sl st blo in next 54 sts. Leave the last 6 sts unworked. (54)
Row 14: Ch 1, sl st blo in next 54 sts. (54)
Row 15: Ch 1, sl st blo in next 54 sts. To create a smooth transition between rows and avoid holes, *insert the hook under the bar between the last two rows, then into the back loop of the next stitch, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops on the hook, sl st blo. Leave the last 4 sts unworked. (56)
Row 16: Ch 1, sl st blo in next 56 sts. (56)
Row 17: Ch 1, sl st blo in next 56 sts. To create a smooth transition between rows and avoid holes, *insert the hook under the bar between the last two rows, then into the back loop of the next stitch, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops on the hook, sl st blo. Leave the last 2 sts unworked. (58)
Row 18: Ch 1, sl st blo in next 58 sts. (58)
Row 19: Ch 1, sl st blo in next 58 sts. To create a smooth transition between rows and avoid holes, *insert the hook under the bar between the last two rows, then into the back loop of the next stitch, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops on the hook, sl st blo. (60)
Rows 20-28: Ch 1, sl st blo in each st across. (60)
Row 29: Ch 1, sl st blo in next 58 sts. Leave the last 2 sts unworked. (58)
Row 30: Ch 1, sl st blo in next 58 sts. (58)
Row 31: Ch 1, sl st blo in next 56 sts. Leave the last 4 sts unworked. (56)
Row 32: Ch 1, sl st blo in next 56 sts. (56)
Row 33: Ch 1, sl st blo in next 54 sts. Leave the last 6 sts unworked. (54)
Row 34: Ch 1, sl st blo in next 54 sts. (54)
Row 35: Ch 1, sl st blo in next 54 sts. To create a smooth transition between rows and avoid holes, *insert the hook under the bar between the last two rows, then into the back loop of the next stitch, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops on the hook, sl st blo — repeat from * 3 times. (60)
Row 36: Ch 1, sl st blo in each st across (60)
Row 37: Ch 1, sl st blo in next 26 sts, inc (place st marker into the central SC), sl st blo in the next 27 sts. Leave the last 6 sts unworked.
Row 38: Ch 1, sl st blo in next 28 sts, inc, sl st blo in the next 27 sts.
Row 39: Ch 1, sl st blo in next 28 sts, inc, sl st blo in the next 31 sts. Leave the last 4 sts unworked.
Row 40: Ch 1, sl st blo in next 32 sts, inc, sl st blo in the next 29 sts.
Row 41: Ch 1, sl st blo in next 30 sts, inc, sl st blo in the next 35 sts. Leave the last 2 sts unworked.
Row 42: Ch 1, sl st blo in next 36 sts, inc, sl st blo in the next 31 sts.
Row 43: Ch 1, sl st blo in next 32 sts, inc, sl st blo in the next 39 sts. (74)
Rows 44-48: Ch 1, sl st blo in each st across. (74)
Sewing the sock:
First, identify the right side of your sock and fold it so the right side is facing out. In my case, the working yarn is sticking out from the part of the piece further from me.
Pull the last loop through the first stitch of the foundation chain. Place the working yarn under this loop (inside the sock).
*Insert the hook from back to front under the front loop of the stitch in the fabric further from you, then from front to back into the stitch of the initial chain. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on the hook.
Repeat the seaming process from * until you reach the toe part.
Cut the yarn and thread the tail onto a yarn needle. Pull the tail under the bar of each ridge, and then pull the yarn tightly to close the hole.
Repeat the pattern for the second sock.
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